What you should know about RHUM AGRICOLE.

[Edward Hamilton]

There is more to rhum agricole than just the letter 'h.' Distilled to about 72% abv from freshly squeezed sugar cane juice which has been
fermented, rhum agricole is made exclusively in the French islands.

In the sugar cane spirits industry, Martinique is the only geographic area with an Appelation and rhum agricole made in Martinique carries the AOC or Appelation d'origine Controlée mark. Martinique and the other French islands also produce rhum made from molasses called 'rhum industriel' but is most often called 'rhum traditionnel' on the label. Over the years there have been a number of rhums claiming to be from Martinique which don't carry the AOC mark.

When looking at a French rum label look for the words 'rhum agricole' and not just Martinique or Guadeloupe. Over the years a number of products bottled in France have made reference or claim to the islands including Kaniche Martinique and Chauvet. In 2006, a rum with an Appelation Rum Controllée was introduced to the US. Despite the fact that there has never been an Appelation Rum Controllée, the French would have called it an Appelation R'h'um Controllée.

Most rhum agricole is made in single-column copper stills which allows the distiller more control of the distillation process than is possible in a pot still.

Though spelled with an 'h' Rhum Barbancourt isn't considered rhum agricole by the people who make it or by the French. The spelling is consistent, however, with the French heritage of Haiti.

Cachaça, also made from freshly squeezed sugar cane juice is distilled to between 38 and 48% abv and only made in Brazil. Just as not all spirits made from sugar cane juice are rhum agricole, neither are they considered cachaça.

[Rum Runner]

We are ready Ed...Lay it on us!

[Rum Runner]

Thanks for the Elucidatuon Ed...So neither Gaudeloupe Or Marie Galant or any other rock administered by France makes A.O.C. RHUM AGRICOLE?

[Scottes]

Interestingly enough, I went looking through my rums for a couple to review, and came across two bottles of St. James - the Hors D'Age and the Royal Ambre. The labels on both contain the word Agricole in thier descriptions and both contain the phrase "Appelation d'origine Controlйe" on the label.

I have two other Martinique rums, the Kaniche and the Clement VSOP. The Kaniche says nothing about Agricole or Appelation d'origine Controlйe. The Clement says both "V.S.O.P Rum" and "Rhum Clement V.S.O.P" - not an agricole by the looks of it. However, the back label says something perhaps a bit misleading: "The heirs of the H. Clement Estate...offer a wide variety of white rums all certified with the Appelation d'origine Controlйe Martinique..." This seems to imply that it's an agricole, but does not specifically say so. Nor can I find any info on the Web that says it's an agricole - or not, so I have to assume it's not.


I also noticed that both Saint James rums are products of Martinique, while the Kaniche and Clement are products of France. Does the rum have to be a product of Martinique to be an agricole?


Out of curiousity, what type of agricole do you prefer for a Ti' Punch? White, gold, unaged, aged, aged even longer?

[Edward Hamilton]

Interestingly enough, I went looking through my rums for a couple to review, and came across two bottles of St. James - the Hors D'Age and the Royal Ambre. The labels on both contain the word Agricole in thier descriptions and both contain the phrase "Appelation d'origine Controlée" on the label.

I have two other Martinique rums, the Kaniche and the Clement VSOP. The Kaniche says nothing about Agricole or Appelation d'origine Controlée. The Clement says both "V.S.O.P Rum" and "Rhum Clement V.S.O.P" - not an agricole by the looks of it. However, the back label says something perhaps a bit misleading: "The heirs of the H. Clement Estate...offer a wide variety of white rums all certified with the Appelation d'origine Controlée Martinique..." This seems to imply that it's an agricole, but does not specifically say so. Nor can I find any info on the Web that says it's an agricole - or not, so I have to assume it's not.

Actually the Clement Estate bottles only AOC rhum agricole. And I should mention that Depaz Blue Cane Amber Rhum is also AOC rhum agricole, distilled at the Depaz distillery in Martinique and bottled on the island. In Martinique, the Depaz bottles carry the AOC mark and the words rhum agricole on the label, but the label for the US import market doesn't have the AOC mark on the label. I am confident that it will be changed shortly.

I also noticed that both Saint James rums are products of Martinique, while the Kaniche and Clement are products of France. Does the rum have to be a product of Martinique to be an agricole?

Currently, rhum agricole can be bottled in Martinique or France but there is discussion of the regulations being tightened so that only rhum agricole bottled in Martinique can carry the AOC mark.


Out of curiousity, what type of agricole do you prefer for a Ti' Punch? White, gold, unaged, aged, aged even longer?

I like rhum agricole blanc at 100 proof, as it is bottled in Martinique. Most of the French distillers bottle their clear spirit at 100 and 110 proof but I prefer the 100 proof in most cases. The old rhums I prefer to drink with a little water and a glass of water on the side.

[woody9six]

OK... after checking at my local rum purveyor, it appears that I have 2 options for rhum agricole...the aforementioned Depaz Blue Cane, and La Favorite Rhum Agricole Blanc. Any opinions one way or the other for my maiden voyange into the rhum agricole seas. I may have a 3rd option in a St James, but I can't remember if it was a rhum agricole or not...if it is, how would that factor in to the decision making process? Thanks in advance.

[Edward Hamilton]

La Favorite Rhum Agricole Blanc is a 100 proof rhum agricole with a lot of aroma and flavor. Depaz Blue Cane Amber Rhum is an aged spirit also bottled in Martinique but at a more conservative 90 proof for the American market.

St James is a rhum agricole distilled in Martinique, unfortunately, the St James rhums sold in the US are bottled in France and lack much of the flavor of those bottled in Martinique.

In Martinique, ti punches are usually made with the clear rhum agricole as opposed to the aged rhums.

[woody9six]

In Martinique, ti punches are usually made with the clear rhum agricole as opposed to the aged rhums.

Perfect. it appears as if La Favorite is the way to go, and since I will be savoring this in ti punch primarily...it seems as if there are no other real options. Thank you!

[woody9six]

In Martinique, ti punches are usually made with the clear rhum agricole as opposed to the aged rhums.

What if I had the option of Clement rhum agricole blanc or La Favorite? Is one generally considered better than the other...or am I wandering into purely subjective territory here?

[Hank Koestner]

In my opinion, La Favorite is the much better choice.

[Edward Hamilton]

Though I am partial to La Favorite, I have to say that it is bottled in Martinique at the distillery where it is made exactly as it is for the local market. The label has a couple of small changes, additions, to comply with the US regulations. Clement is bottled at 80 proof for the US market. While this isn't necessarily bad, I understand there are plans to bring in a 100 proof version in the future.

[Hank Koestner]

Ed was a bit more diplomatic than I was about Clement and La Favorite.
The difference in proof really effects the flavor profile, and I would guess the 100 proof version of Clement would be better, as far as a comparison would go.

[Hank Koestner]

Since we are talking about Rhum Agricole Blanc, There is also an interesting difference in the flavor of Rhum Bologne from Guadaloupe and the white rums from Martinique. Bologne seems a hair less refined, a little more herbal and citrus. I do enjoy a Ti Punch made with Rhum Bologne. It is nice to be able to choose between Niesson, La Favorite and Bologne because they are all unique in thier own way. Any Comments about Rhum from Guadaloupe?
And, also added to this choice would be the amber rhums Niesson ESB and La Favorite. While I am at it, has anyone tried the Punch Vieux? I have with Neisson Reserve and La Favorite Coeur du Rhum and enjoyed them quite a bit. Any suggestions for other amber or dark rums for a Punch Vieux? How about molasses based rum? I have tried a few. As you can see, I am a fan of the Ti Punch.

[woody9six]

Ed was a bit more diplomatic than I was about Clement and La Favorite.
The difference in proof really effects the flavor profile, and I would guess the 100 proof version of Clement would be better, as far as a comparison would go.

As long as you are both in agreement, I can take or leave the diplomacy. Thanks for the responses. :D

[John Martin]

Hi Edward,
Would the Westerhall rum with the wax top be considered a rhum agricole? I had this a few years back and it was excellent. The only rum I've found that appeals to me more is One Barrel from Belize.

[Berbician]

Westerhall Plantation rum is indeed very good, but it isn't "Rhum Agricole". Westerhall no longer distill their own rum - they import rum, in bulk, from Trinidad and then age it. As far as I know, all Trinidadian rum is molasses based and can not therefore be "Rhum Agricole" which has to be made from sugar cane juice.

[Edward Hamilton]

Ed was a bit more diplomatic than I was about Clement and La Favorite.
The difference in proof really effects the flavor profile, and I would guess the 100 proof version of Clement would be better, as far as a comparison would go.

While I'm not usually accused of being diplomatic, I hope I can encourage others to try different rums and educate their palates.

[Edward Hamilton]

Westerhall Plantation rum is indeed very good, but it isn't "Rhum Agricole". Westerhall no longer distill their own rum - they import rum, in bulk, from Trinidad and then age it. As far as I know, all Trinidadian rum is molasses based and can not therefore be "Rhum Agricole" which has to be made from sugar cane juice.

The requirement to be called rhum agricole actually lies with the country or region of origin. In the French islands, being distilled from freshly squeezed sugar cane juice is only one of the criteria to be called rhum agricole.

Berbician is correct that Westerhall couldn't be called rhum agricole if it was distilled on a French island. But not all rum distilled in Trinidad is made from molasses. 10 Cane (http://ministryofrum.com/rumdetails.php?r=550) is made from freshly squeezed sugar cane juice.

[Mr Fjeld]

My only experience of rhum agricole is the one I have open at the moment; Trois Rivieres 1996. I think it's fantastic, and although I haven't had that many rums I think it's the best rum I've had. I recently also bought a 1997 vintage from J.M. Rhums and have heard great things about it. However, I'm a little curious about ruhm agricole - are there great varieties between the different brands? It seems there is a strict appellation controllee and I was wondering if that creates a "uniform" product throughout the island of Martinique?

[Edward Hamilton]

There are wide differences in the rhums produced in Martinique, just as there are in wines produced in any region of the world. Part of the taste difference is due to the different yeasts used for fermentation. Distillation is also different depending on the skill of the distiller and the physical properties of the still. Then there is the aging and bottling process, which invokes even more differences, some of which are subtle but others, like the type of barrels used yields very different results.

[Hank Koestner]

Rhums produced in Martinique and Guadaloupe are among my most favorite. As Ed says, there are differences in flavor depending on how the final product was made. May I suggest anything from the Neisson family as one you may like, also DePaz.........It is also fun and informative to find out which process each distillery uses and compare them. This is something I have started to look into. Taste them as you like, and enjoy!!

[Mr Fjeld]

Thanks for the response guys, I'll certainly look for more ruhm agricole when traveling this summer:)

[angelsword]

Part of the taste difference is due to the different yeasts used for fermentation.
One distiller with whom I spoke complained about the inevitablity of wild strains of yeast when working with fresh cane juice and some of the "off" flavors that they introduce.

[Edward Hamilton]

Wild stains of yeast are only one of the variables with which distillers have to contend when dealing with fresh sugar cane juice. But it should be noted that most wild strains of yeast take longer to cause fermentation than the cultivated yeast most distillers use in their distilleries.

If you aren't growing your own cane, or your distillery isn't next to a sugar cane field it is impossible to use fresh sugar cane juice as a raw ingredient.

[nolarummy]

We have been experimenting with different yeast strains to ferment the molasses at the distillery. It is truly amazing the different flavors that the yeast contribute. Our first experiment was with a yeast that was isolated off of Guatamalan sugar cane and the resultant rum tasted very close to a rhum agricole, very grassy and slightly phenolic. I had always assumed the grassy character came from the freshly pressed cane but I am convinced that most of that flavor comes from the yeast.
The batch we fermented with Belgian ale yeast was very tasty and we are now fermenting a batch with German Hefe weizen yeast, hoping that some of the banana/clove character will come through in the distillation.

cheers! -Mike "Elvis" Karnowski
head distiller
New Orleans Rum

[KINGSTON]

I just started learing about this "Rhum". I have yet to get my hands on a bottle. I just picked up the magazine ISLANDS. In their December issue they have an article intitled, Vive la Rhum- The Distinctive Flavor of Martinique's Rum Industry. It's short but sweet, if you find your self in a book store this month check it out.

Kingston

[ejellest]

Hiya,

Looking for information about Rhum Agricole history.

My short summary of what I've been trying to parse:

Rum has been produced in Martinique since some time in the 1600s. However most of the cane went into sugar production.

Some time in the 19th Century there was a collapse of the sugar market, forcing cane growers to consider alternative ways to use their crop, including distilling more for rum.

In 1902 there was a volcano eruption on Martinique, destroying many of the cane fields.

However, when World War I rolled around, increased interest in alcohol for industrial and war use, restarted distilling cane into alcohol in Martinique.

After World War I, these new production facilities were switched to producing alcohol for human consumption.

Questions:

Is this summary accurate?

Was rum in Martinique made from cane juice before the collapse of the sugar market or was it entirely "industrial rum" from molasses?

Which companies first marketed Rhum Agricole?

Thanks!

~Erik

[Edward Hamilton]

Hiya,

Looking for information about Rhum Agricole history.

My short summary of what I've been trying to parse:

Rum has been produced in Martinique since some time in the 1600s. However most of the cane went into sugar production.

Some time in the 19th Century there was a collapse of the sugar market, forcing cane growers to consider alternative ways to use their crop, including distilling more for rum.

That happened in the 1880s. The decline in the sugar industry was a direct result of a world wide recession and competition from sugar produced from sugar beets.


In 1902 there was a volcano eruption on Martinique, destroying many of the cane fields.

The Mont Pelйe eruption didn't destroy too much of the sugar cane fields but it did destroy the St James distillery. There was already a lot of sugar cane growing in other parts of the island.


However, when World War I rolled around, increased interest in alcohol for industrial and war use, restarted distilling cane into alcohol in Martinique.

After World War I, these new production facilities were switched to producing alcohol for human consumption.

Questions:

Is this summary accurate?

Was rum in Martinique made from cane juice before the collapse of the sugar market or was it entirely "industrial rum" from molasses?

Which companies first marketed Rhum Agricole?

Thanks!

~Erik

The question of who marketed the first rhum agricole is one of debate. St James, Clement and others make that claim.

[ejellest]

[...]
The question of who marketed the first rhum agricole is one of debate. St James, Clement and others make that claim.

Do any of them have a ballpark year for the claims? What's the earliest bottle anyone has ever turned up?

[vincana]

Ok maybe a dumb question, but Agricole production sounds similar to cachaca. Aside from regional requirements whats the difference??

[lalie003]

A quick post to say:

I am not sure that St. James burned in 1902 but i am sure depaz was destroyed!

Before the sugar industry problem every distillery were making industrial rum! To save thé economy on thé Island they decided to produce rhum agricole!

Cheers

Recently they just found and bottled industrial rum from domaine de courcelles a distillery that closed in 1973! The rhum has past 32 years in cask! It is from Guadeloupe.

[Edward Hamilton]

The St James distillery was destroyed in 1902 and then relocated to the eastern side of the island and rebuilt.

The Depaz distillery didn't exist in 1902.

[lalie003]

Well when i visited thé depaz distillery i am pretty sure that they told me that thé distillery was destroyed in 1902 and thé grandsun of thé owner who was in bordeaux for his study lost all his familly in this accident and decided to rebuild everything... But i may be wrong.

Cheers

Ps: i didn t know St. JameS has been relocated

[Edward Hamilton]

I was fortunate enough to meet Andre Depaz, the grandson of the man who was in Bordeaux when Pelee erupted in 1902. Depaz was one of the first families to cultivate the mountainside of Mount Pelee after the 1902 eruption. There was another, smaller, subsequent eruption in 1929 but that eruption didn't do much more than add more volcanic ash to the mountainside.

The courtyard in the back of the Depaz mansion was built with a view of the mountain. The mansion took Italian stone masons seven years to complete, 1922 - 1929.

[RonJames]

I saw earlier a question about agricole vs. cachaca. I believe agricole is distilled to a higher proof and I think cachaca has some sugar added back into it.

[Sylbaris]

Guys:

Please review some of my earliest posts to this forum. Only a few rhum agricoles have reached these shores, most commercially the St. James, La Favorite, Clement and Depaz, and rarely their best efforts, however when we all visit Martinique on our MOR Rhum Pilgrimage you will soon discover the beauty of all things agricole like the food, people, fauna and of course the spirits like La Mauny, Dillon, Trois Rivere, Neisson and the clear gold standard if we can find any Rhum Bally!!!

[Edward Hamilton]

Considering that the Bally distillery closed in 1989, it's hard to say that Bally is the clear gold standard. I do however, appreciate the sentimental value of the past. Bally was good rum, but just down the road is the operating Neisson distillery that is considered by many on Martinique today to be the best rum you can buy on the island.

There is nothing, absolutely nothing, like the experience of visiting a working distillery, seeing and smelling the aging warehouse and then tasting some of that rum. The memories will last a lifetime. Meeting the distillers and owners of many of the distilleries was the highlight of my research for my early books. I can't wait to get back to the islands and continue the research.

[Sylbaris]

Ed: I can only concur and muse about past visits to Maritinique and the time I spent with Madame Bally and her grand-daughter...However it was indeed Neisson that was used in my very first Ti-punch at the 1902 Bar in St. Pierre in 1983. Bally is gone as is the 1902 Bar but I keep a bottle in my collection to foster the sweet deja vu and memory of some of the best times I have experienced in my life.

[Tristan]

Martinique and the other French islands also produce rhum made from molasses called 'rhum industriel' but is most often called 'rhum traditionnel' on the label.

Has any body heard about "rhum traditionnel" from the Damoiseau Distillery in Guadeloupe ? I know they make both kinds of rhum but I don't think I have ever seen a bottle from Damoiseau that is not Agricole.

[Edward Hamilton]

I believe all of their molasses based rum is sold to blenders in France or used to make other concoctions in Guadeloupe.

[rhum-agricole]

in 2009 83% of Martinique rhum was AOC labelled (from fresh sugarcane juice). The remaining (or the equivalent of 15949 hectolitres of pure alcohol) was produced at the sole sugar producing facility in Martinique: the Gallion plant. The Gallion plant uses its own produced molasses to make traditional rhum (or industrial rhum as it is also called) but its production is not sold (at least I have never seen any Gallion rhum in Martinique or continental France).

For more details on AOC/Traditional production in Martinique, please refer to http://www.rhum-agricole.net/site/en/mq_rum

[Edward Hamilton]

Galion rum isn't highly prized in Martinique but it is sold in Leader Price grocery stores as well a number of other grocery stores, especially in the eastern part of the island.

[Edward Hamilton]

in 2009 83% of Martinique rhum was AOC labelled (from fresh sugarcane juice). The remaining (or the equivalent of 15949 hectolitres of pure alcohol) was produced at the sole sugar producing facility in Martinique: the Gallion plant. The Gallion plant uses its own produced molasses to make traditional rhum (or industrial rhum as it is also called) but its production is not sold (at least I have never seen any Gallion rhum in Martinique or continental France).

For more details on AOC/Traditional production in Martinique, please refer to http://www.rhum-agricole.net/site/en/mq_rum

The Galion sugar factory isn't the only distillery that produces cane spirit alcohol that isn't AOC rhum agricole, but the other distilleries don't advertise that they make anything but rhum agricole.