Berling S.A. Vieux Labbй from Haiti

[lperry]

I originally joined the forums to find out about this rhum because it had been in the liquor cabinet for a couple of years after being acquired in the Port au Prince duty free shop. We finally opened it last night, and I'm going to try to describe my impressions of it. I've found a couple of other posts on this rhum since I first asked about it, so I'm hoping that others will help out with their reviews. :)

The nose and main flavor profile are like smoky caramel/butterscotch. I live with a single malt scotch and bourbon aficionado, and there are shades of both in this rhum. It has a depth and richness to it that I have not had before in a rum, but I am not familiar with agricoles, so I don't know if these characters are commonplace or not. If I hadn't poured it myself, I can't say that I would immediately recognize it as a cane spirit.

My previous forays into aged rums have been with Appleton, so this experience was completely different. In the spirit of full disclosure, after I took a few sips, the remainder of the glass made its way into a spiced cider toddy that was quite delicious.

[Rum Runner]

Linda...Happy to hear that you finally cracked the bottle.

I would not assume that the bottle you have is a sugar cane juice rum...Unless you have some evidence of such. As you may know, the Berling Company is an off shoot of the Barbancourt family..But is not related in business to the Barbancourt Rum widely available in the USA.

Can you shed some light as to why you think the Berling is produced from juice as opposed to syrup or molasses?

[lperry]

To be honest, I assumed "rhum" from Haiti meant agricole, although I've read recently that even Barbancourt doesn't always use cane juice. I did know that Haiti has no AOC agricoles. So it was a potentially ill-informed and possibly incorrect guess. :)

It's my understanding that they have more in their line up than the original gold label now, so next trip through Haiti we'll pick up a few more bottles. It really is lovely stuff.

[Michael]

... I did know that Haiti has no AOC agricoles. ...

The AOC designations are particular to the nation of France, including overseas departments such as Martinique and Guadaloupe, aren't they? Haiti has been a separate republic since 1804 when independence was declared, or 1825 when France agreed to recognize Haiti in exchange for reparations.

[lperry]

The AOC designations are particular to the nation of France, including overseas departments such as Martinique and Guadaloupe, aren't they?
Could be. I assumed (again, perhaps incorrectly), that if a French/Creole speaking country decided to standardize processing and product, they would use the term "AOC" as the designation. Particularly because the Caribbean doesn't have anything like the EU's PDO. Or perhaps they do. Anyone?

[Michael]

"Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC), which translates as "controlled term of origin" is the French certification granted to certain French geographical indications for wines, cheeses, butters, and other agricultural products, all under the auspices of the government bureau Institut National des Appellations d'Origine (INAO)."

from Wikipedia AOC Listing (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Appellation_d%27origine_contr%C3%B4l%C3%A9e).

[lperry]

Well then, there you have it. I regularly buy USDA organic certified produce from other countries, and despite the fact that I look for DOC or DOCG on Italian wines and AOC on French, I never really thought about it as country specific, just as adhering to certain guidelines. In retrospect and with the consideration that one of the main points is to establish exclusivity, it makes perfect sense. I remember in Guadeloupe remarking on the wonderful wine selection in the grocery store and having a woman tell me, "Of course. You are in France." Were I to go back today, I'd be rum shopping instead. ;)

So now I know all about AOC, but no more about the Vieux Labbй! I did find a page on Facebook that indicated that, like Barbancourt, some of the rum is from cane juice and other from molasses. So it may or may not be agricole. Or it may be semi-agricole. I don't know how I would be able to tell.

[Rum Runner]

So now I know all about AOC, but no more about the Vieux Labbé! I did find a page on Facebook that indicated that, like Barbancourt, some of the rum is from cane juice and other from molasses. So it may or may not be agricole. Or it may be semi-agricole. I don't know how I would be able to tell.

A wise Uncle of mine once told me at a tender age that "The more you learn the less you know".

As you understand in your profession Linda, nothing duplicates being at the source. Perhaps you will have the chance to revisit the rum/rhum in question and enlighten us, which would be a welcome addition. You may be positioned to gain some insights that are not so easy to come by. cheers.gif

[Rum Runner]

The AOC designations are particular to the nation of France, including overseas departments such as Martinique and Guadaloupe, aren't they?

You are correct Michael. AOC is particular to France. AOC RHUM AGRICOLE is only approved for Martinique at this time. Guadeloupe is in the process of applying for AOC status...We can expect a "length of time" to pass as the Guadeloupe producers who wish to participate come to terms on the standards for their product.

[Hank Koestner]

I am really interested in this rhum. I hope I get the opportunity to try it, or some how it comes to the US.
A part of me hopes that maybe Guadaloupe does not standardize, as I like the products that are distilled there now.

[Rum Runner]

I am really interested in this rhum. I hope I get the opportunity to try it, or some how it comes to the US.
A part of me hopes that maybe Guadaloupe does not standardize, as I like the products that are distilled there now.

Hank...Good thoughts there. I think that if Guadeloupe does become AOC, It will retain it's own character...I do not think the producers there will stand for anything less. They recognize their difference with Martinique quite clearly.

I think their challenge will be how to come together to express such in a way that makes sense to the INAO. Time will tell.

[lperry]

A wise Uncle of mine once told me at a tender age that "The more you learn the less you know".
Too true. When you know enough to know that you know nothing, you've gotten somewhere. I do wish, however, that someone who is better able to describe rum flavor profiles had a bottle of this one. I tend to be a bit overwhelmed by the alcohol and only taste major flavors in straight spirits, although I can sometimes pick up the nuance if I mix it. If there's a trick there, I'd love to know what it is.

I am really interested in this rhum. I hope I get the opportunity to try it, or some how it comes to the US.
Here is their website, and they do have an email address. Maybe we can start a grass roots movement. http://www.berlingsa.com/

[rumdog007]

I tend to be a bit overwhelmed by the alcohol and only taste major flavors in straight spirits, although I can sometimes pick up the nuance if I mix it. If there's a trick there, I'd love to know what it is.



If you add a dash of filtered room temperature water, or 2, it will tone down that strong bite enough to savor the other flavor. I, too, used to be overwhelmed by strong spirits. glass.gif

[forrest]

rumdog007 is dead on.
A little water (as clean as you can get, and room temp) will 'dilute' the alcohol (the most volatile flavor in a spirit), and allow you access to the other (considerably less volatile) flavors..
The problem with to much water is it 'stretches' the flavors across to large a volume, so start with a little, and adjust.

Also, 'smell' the 'scents' as long as you can before you 'taste' the flavors.
The nose can easily discern between hundreds of scents (flavors for the nose), even when only present in a minuscule amount (our taste buds observe flavor with 5).

Smell, agitate, smell, aerate, smell, examine, smell, sip, smell again. . .

This will 'inform' your palate what to 'taste' for: Hundreds of hints, and five ways to find them-- the more clues you have, the better your chances of finding out, what you are trying to find out.

i have to taste a broad range of spirits for my job.. always have some water handy.

Some smelling tips:
SMELL STRAIGHT ALCOHOL ONLY WITH EXTREME CAUTION!
Hold the glass a couple of inches away, sniff gently, aim for the bottom lip of the glass, then the top, then each side in turn, and repeat.

One trick i like is to plant my nose into my glass, as far as i can, taking care to NOT 'inhale' through my nose,i instead inhale through my mouth-- you have to be careful with this, but it gives you a wonderful 'overall' of the scents as they exist in harmony with one another.

OK now to taste: Take the smallest sip you can-- let it wash your palate (just barely enough to cover your tongue' with effort), let it 'sensitize' your palate-- give you more hints... take another smell or ten... now a bigger sip--

From here let nature take over, and trust yourself..

How can you smell mango in distilled sugar cane?? i don't know but it is there-- behind the finger nail polish, the old books in the library, pineapple, erasers, strawberry's, banana, turned soil, coconut, cigar box, marshmallow, fresh split fire wood, cotton candy, leather, melon, tobacco-- whatever...

It is your experience, you define it... and we can't wait to hear about it!!!

[rumdog007]

rumdog007 is dead on.
A little water (as clean as you can get, and room temp) will 'dilute' the alcohol (the most volatile flavor in a spirit), and allow you access to the other (considerably less volatile) flavors..


Gosh, let's see. I believe that the reason I know this is because forrest actually taught me this tip! Thanks, f! thankyou.gif

[lperry]

Many thanks for the water tip - It definitely takes off that edge. I'll probably come back in the future and say something more useful after I try a few more aged rums and have more for comparison, but for now, here goes.

The nose is smoky butterscotch and is wonderful and smooth even without any water added. The smoke lessened with the addition of the water. The body is neither overly sweet nor dry, but rich. There is a bit of an initial bite (there's a spice in there - pepper maybe?), then butterscotch cake with some vanilla oakiness (at least that's how I would describe it in wine), and a very slight floral top note. There is a depth that I know comes from the aging. I'm not getting fruit in this one. With a tiny spoon of water, there is no alcohol harshness at all, just the bite that lasts through the finish. I can't get away from the baked goods for descriptors. Toffee shortbread bars. Vanilla butter cake. Ever have a southern caramel cake? Really delicious.

[rumdog007]

lperry, thank you for the skillful and insightful tasting notes. I definitely was tasting a little of that rum, too!

[TheRumelier]

I got given a couple of small bottles of this rhum earlier in the week. Haven't tried it yet, but after Linda's review I am interested to try it out. The one thing that surprised me with the small bottle was that it actually had Berling embossed on the bottom of the bottle. Most small bottles I get out of Haiti usually have Bermudez or other Dominican rum names embossed on the bottom and sometimes the cap. I did take a small sniff of one of the bottles and smelt pretty good. Will report back later after a good sample!!

[lperry]

Will report back later after a good sample!!
Please do! I have more experience with wine than rum (so far), but it's always interesting how different people will find different flavors. I also can sometimes only figure out a flavor after it is pointed out to me.

I forgot to mention that my bottle is the five star gold label. The best Mr. lperry can remember, it was purchased about five or six years ago. It's definitely on the list for the next trip to Haiti.

[forrest]

Ever have a southern caramel cake? Really delicious.

Yes i have, and that rum does sound delicious...

Especially the persistent spice against the full, dark rich flavors--yum!

Excellent notes, and thanks for letting us taste vicariously through you...

[Hank Koestner]

Thank you, gentlemen, and now I really want to taste this one.

[TheRumelier]

I would not assume that the bottle you have is a sugar cane juice rum...Unless you have some evidence of such. As you may know, the Berling Company is an off shoot of the Barbancourt family..But is not related in business to the Barbancourt Rum widely available in the USA.
Can you shed some light as to why you think the Berling is produced from juice as opposed to syrup or molasses?

The website says they use molasses and cane juice, so I decided I would give it a try. From Linda's description it sounded more like a molasses rum than a cane rum. Initial impression was a little dissapointing after such a build up. I certainly am not convinced it is a cane juice rum, but then again it would be hard to put Barbancourt in the same group as rhums from Martinique. Mind you, I was at a wedding yesterday, so my taste buds and my head are a little dull!!
I see three different labels on the website, I am trying the one with the white label. It is not a bad rum, just lacks a little body, similar to a Dominican rum, light body. In a blind taste test I definetly would have would have gone across the border. I'm not sure it is very old, judging from the colour and taste, fairly light brown to straw. Not the usual tastes for a cane juice rhum, so who knows, maybe it is a blend of both???

[lperry]

I'm sorry it was a disappointment. I think, from what I see on the website, you have the youngest bottling they offer, I've got the five-star mid-grade, and then there is a ten-year black label high-test. I don't know how much aging will change rums having never tasted my way through a series of the same brand (which I really should do).

Can you explain what criteria you use to tell an agricole from a molasses rum?

[TheRumelier]

The website is not very helpful as to listing any of their products. I think you are right about their ages. Now I have some photos I will try and hunt down some of the older bottlings with my Haitian ex-pats. It is fun tasting a flight of rums, especially with a group of friends or other rum lovers. From your description I pre-thought it may be a molasses rum, ie. butterscotch, vanilla, oak, but some also said cane juice, ie. floral, spice.
In the end it was the overall tastes of creamy vanilla and the aroma that suggested molasses. It was not like your typical French rhum or even the non-typical rhum like Barbancourt. It all suggested molasses, especially the ease of drinking or smoothness. Hopefully I am right!! I think we should use the e-mail address on the website to find out??

[Lew Barrett]

Can you explain what criteria you use to tell an agricole from a molasses rum?

While I have now got some real experience with molasses based rums, agricoles are somewhat rarer iin my world. However, I have a few now and here's what I detect. First and foremost, there is that obvious extra "vitamin A". Agricoles, quite simply run to higher proof than most molasses products, and I get that as extra burn. Maybe "burn" isn't fair, but hopefully you understand that the higher proof tends to make them "spicier." Then, there is the generally more herbal nature of agricoles. They are grassy and more vegetal as a rule. Perhaps they are closer to the grasses they are made from, as there isn't any intermediate step in producing the molasses. I also find that frequently enough molasses based products tend to be a bit oilier, with a thicker mouth feel than most agricoles.

Now, at the risk of sounding a bit unsophisticated, I have to say that Agricoles seem to be an acquired taste to me. And perhaps, I have yet to acquire that. I have found as time goes by and my palate expands that sweetness by itself is not a virtue for me in most rum or rhum. But I have yet to find the allure in sipping most of the Agricoles I have tried, and prefer them mixed, as in a Ti Punch. Chac'un a son gout!

[TheRumelier]

Now, at the risk of sounding a bit unsophisticated, I have to say that Agricoles seem to be an acquired taste to me. And perhaps, I have yet to acquire that. I have found as time goes by and my palate expands that sweetness by itself is not a virtue for me in most rum or rhum. But I have yet to find the allure in sipping most of the Agricoles I have tried, and prefer them mixed, as in a Ti Punch. Chac'un a son gout!

That is a good description Lew, and I totally agree with your statements shown above. What I felt yesterday, but couldn't be bothered spoiling my football time with a long effort of writing on the wife's lab-top!!! I keep trying to discover agricoles but haven't found one I really like yet. I think growing up on molasses rums, it is hard to acquire a taste for them later in life. I think the only way for me to acquire a taste for them would be to spend some time in the French islands. Now that sounds like a plan.:confused:

[lperry]

Thank you both - this information is helpful in a couple of ways. First, as to the mystery of the molasses/cane juice contents of this rum, I'm going to venture that it is a combination based upon what I tasted. Although the spicy bite might be a result of the 86 proof-ness (?) It's also helpful because I know that my palate runs to the dry side. What I really liked about this rum was that those deeper flavors were balanced by the bite/burn so they did not overwhelm. This is by no means a sweet rum, which is why I find it so interesting. There are flavors in there that I associate with sweetness, but the body of the rum is not heavy or cloying at all. So if you like sweet, please don't book a ticket to Haiti based on my review of this rum! Today I'll send an email to Berling SA and see if I can find out anything more.

Edited to add this link:

http://www.drinksint.com/news/fullstory.php/aid/306/Caribbean_Rum.html

Apparently, when they entered the 10-year in the London competition, it was as an agricole. Scroll down to the Overproof category and over 7 years.

[lperry]

And the quick and polite reply from Berling SA is in.

Dear Linda,

Thank you for showing interest in our rhum, and to answer your question our rhum are based on both sugar cane and molasses. I hope that this clarifies your question and if you need anymore information please do not hesitate to contact us.

Best Regards,

Herbert Linge
--
Herbert Linge
Sales Director
BERLING S.A
Laboule 12
Rue Jane Barbancourt
P-au-P, Haiti
(509) 37 02 55 55
(509) 29 49 79 99

[forrest]

And the quick and polite reply from Berling SA is in.

Well that was quick, and polite.... for sure!!

i need a jug of this so i can comment!!

[rumdog007]

Dear Forrest,

A case has been sent to your email address.

Best Regards,

Herbert Linge
--
Herbert Linge
Sales Director
BERLING S.A
Laboule 12
Rue Jane Barbancourt
P-au-P, Haiti
(509) 37 02 55 55
(509) 29 49 79 99

[Michael]

Nice one rumdog! :D

[TheRumelier]

The website says they use molasses and cane juice. Not the usual tastes for a cane juice rhum, so who knows, maybe it is a blend of both???

This was just a wild guess, but it is certainly an interesting rum/rhum and has made me want to try the older bottlings. Now I'm busy printing photos off the website to send with my next rum/rhum mule to Haiti.:)

[The Rum Ambassador]

I'll be over in Haiti in February so I'll be able to all the run down the Rhum Berling. I'll be hanging out with Herbert Labbe at his distillery and learning about the Haitian rhum culture.

[TheRumelier]

I'll be over in Haiti in February so I'll be able to all the run down the Rhum Berling. I'll be hanging out with Herbert Labbe at his distillery and learning about the Haitian rhum culture.

Be CAREFUL, I'm serious. All my staff are Haitian, and there is a reason they are all here!!:(

[The Rum Ambassador]

Cheers, I will be very careful, as I always am when traveling abroad. I never any situation for granted, especially in a country that has a serious representation. but then so does my home island of Jamaica.

[TheRumelier]

I have printed off some photos from the website for my employees to try and pick up a bottle when they go back to Haiti next. Then there is the other rhum that has been shown here, Janes? I have some old photos from my trip to Haiti in 1990 that I will I will put on my website when I start a Haitian rhum page in the near future. In the meantime I'm practicing drinking rum for my trip to San Juan and testing my Spanish on the local Dominican barmaids!!! g()fy

[The Rum Ambassador]

I have printed off some photos from the website for my employees to try and pick up a bottle when they go back to Haiti next. Then there is the other rhum that has been shown here, Janes? I have some old photos from my trip to Haiti in 1990 that I will I will put on my website when I start a Haitian rhum page in the near future. In the meantime I'm practicing drinking rum for my trip to San Juan and testing my Spanish on the local Dominican barmaids!!! g()fy

Now that's a great reason to practice Spanish. San Juan is great. Bacardi's Process Manager, Jose Gomez, really looked after me while I was there. I should be in Dominican Rep as well later on this year with Brugal. I need to brush up on my Spanish too!

[The Rum Ambassador]

Did you mean San Juan Puerto Rico or Dominican Republic ?

[TheRumelier]

I have printed off some photos from the website for my employees to try and pick up a bottle when they go back to Haiti next.

Unfortunately after patiently waiting for one of my staff to come back from his recent trip to Haiti, he only bought me back an old plastic juice/milk bottle full of Clarin (Haitian moonshine). He said the Berling was thousands of Gourdes (?) which translated to about US$60. Next time I guess I will have to send the money with the mule!
The moonshine is sitting on my desk, very raw alcohol smells, no aging, straight from the still. It reminds me of the moonshine I saw being made in St.Kitts last year, slightly rawer, as I presume it is made from cane juice. The locals here call it "Monkey Bag".
Fair play to my employee, he always brings me back a bottle of some description!!!

[lperry]

That's too bad - or perhaps not. Maybe you enjoy moonshine? I've got about one more drink in my bottle of the gold label, and I was going to get Mr. lperry to try it for tasting notes. He drinks single malt and bourbon quite a bit, and this rum reminds me more of whisky than other rums I've tried.

[Edward Hamilton]

Many aged rums made from sugar cane juice or a combination of sugar cane juice and syrup have a lot in common with single malts due to the low distillation proof and the barrel influence.

Too bad you're down to the last drink of that rum, but I'm confident you'll find something else to covet in the near future.

[lperry]

The empty bottle is in the recycle bin, and the second review went something like this. "This is really good, but it doesn't taste like rum." When I asked what it tasted like, Mr. lperry was at something of a loss. Cognac? A little like that. Scotch? Sort of. He did comment on the smoky butterscotch, and "This is really good" kept coming up. Here's to another convert. glass.gif

So this one gets filed under "unique." Although it seems that many rums have this particular designation. I think if you like the whisky-style rums you will enjoy this one, and if you are a fan of the sweeter rums you may not care for it so much. It will definitely be on my list for this fall to stock for next winter.

[rumdog007]

I have been working on getting this rum. Not easy!

[TheRumelier]

As I said earlier one of my employees at work was asked to bring me a bottle back from Haiti but he said it was too expensive at US$60. He did say it came in a nice wooden box though!! I will have to settle for my 2 little flasks.
This week I found a flask of Clairin with lots of stuff floating around in it at a local store. Most of the bottles are used Brugal or Bermudez bottles from the D.R. These are the most popular sizes in Haiti. Tha Barbancourt White is not widely available in Haiti as it would be associated with the Clairin as it is white. I also have a few bottles with no labels that my employees have bought back over the years. Most come in old Barbancourt bottles, but the most recent was in an old plastic juice bottle. This "rhum" was called "22-22". Not sure what this means though. Apparently Clairin is an important source of income during the sugar cane harvest when the cane is crushed. Also the bagasse is often turned into charcoal, a major fuel source in Haiti. It is cheaper than gas or gasoline. But charcoal has caused mass deforestation and mudslides, after all the trees have also been cut down for charcoal.

[lperry]

I think the easiest place is the duty free in Port au Prince, but unless you happen to fly in on business, it's not a common stop for most people. According to Mr. lperry, the gold label was pretty cheap there - 7 or 10 dollars. I don't know how much we can rely on his memory since he looked but didn't buy it this tme. I know that the Barbancourt white was $3.50, the three star was $5, and the five star was $7.50. I think it's a little pricier than in town, but they pack it nicely so you can get it safely in your checked suitcase in Miami.